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Dressed to Kill: British Naval Uniform, Masculinity and Contemporary Fashions, 1748-1857 |  | Author: Amy Miller
Publisher: National Maritime Museum
Category: Book
List Price: $40.95
Buy New: $29.86
as of 7/30/2010 22:59 MDT details
You Save: $11.09 (27%)
New (6) Used (9) from $29.86
Seller: indoobestsellers
Rating:  2 reviews
Sales Rank: 583868
Media: Paperback
Pages: 192
Number Of Items: 1
Shipping Weight (lbs): 1.9
Dimensions (in): 10.5 x 8.4 x 0.6
ISBN: 0948065745
Dewey Decimal Number: 359
EAN: 9780948065743
ASIN: 0948065745
Publication Date: July 10, 2007
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
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Product Description
Coinciding with the "Sailor Chic" exhibition at the National Maritime Museum (NMM), this book explores naval identity, contemporary fashion, and masculinity in three essays and features newly commissioned art that fully illustrates the NMM’s uniform collection. Personal papers, diaries, fiction and other period artifacts combine with the images to demonstrate the significance of male fashion and uniform in forging a national, hierarchical, gendered identity in the 18th and 19th centuries.
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| Customer Reviews:
 Patterns are not like Janet Arnold November 18, 2009
Lady Corsetra, costumer
1 out of 2 found this review helpful
I checked this book out from my library before purchasing so I knew what I was buying. I purchased it because I know some sailors who could benefit from having better clothing and thus it was needed on my book shelves.
Most of the garments are Officers, which of course are the minority of any crew.
I was very interested in seeing the "Patterns" in this book. Note I put quotation marks. The majority of the patterns are line drawings of the assembled garment laid flat. More like Nancy Bradfield's bookCostume in Detail: 1730-1930 There are no measurements, no scale, no graph. What you get is a good view of where the seam lines are. IF you want to recreat anything you will need to use Norah Waugh's The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 and probably other books on tailoring in conjecture with this one.
The drawings are cleaner than Bradfield's but not as clean as those in SSeventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail, formerly Historical Fashion in detail, formerly Fashion in Detail
 An outstanding visual and documentary reference April 25, 2009
Heke
2 out of 2 found this review helpful
Written by the Curator of Decorative Arts and Material Culture at the National Maritime Museum, London, this soft-bound book discusses the development of Royal Navy officer uniform from its first beginnings in 1748 until 1857. Uniform for ratings is discussed briefly in the text but since uniform for ratings were not regulated until 1857 it remains outside the scope of this book.
The author places her subject within the context of contemporary civilian fashion and discusses the deliberate intent of the first uniform to delineate social class as well as rank. The author makes the point that despite the adoption of a uniform Royal Navy officers were initially considered crass and unmannered. Changes to the uniform over during the period are examined using descriptions from period literature, pamphlets and tracts to give a sense of the changing public perceptions of the Royal Navy and the role of that uniform played in visually reinforcing these views.
The text is authoritative, factual and fully referenced. The book is broadly divided into three sections: the text; colour photographs of surviving examples of uniform; and line drawings of selected items from Section Two to illustrate construction of the garment and how they could be tailored. Photos and images have been selected with skill to represent and compliment the text and subject matter.
The colour plates feature examples of dress coats and includes; waistcoats, epaulettes, hats, undress coats for surgeons, lieutenants and midshipmen, a boat clock, trousers, a pursers full dress coat, buttons a ratings frock c'1854-65, neck-stock, tricorn hat, stockings, shirt, a robe of the Order of the Bath, a child's sailors suit 1846, and a jacket and waistcoat of the Honourable East India Company.
This is an excellent reference work for costumiers, figure modellers, and social and military historians, and was a pleasure to read. Highly recommended.
CHAPTER LIST:
INTRODUCTION
The first patterns
Before uniforms
The new uniform
The naval officer
Civilian crossover
Conclusion
WAR AND REVOLUTION
Naval uniform and contemporary fashion 1787-1912
A uniform for warrant officers
Uniform for medical officers
The naval officer in society
Uniform patterns 1812-1825
The old navy versus the new navy
The Navy's new clothes
The new uniform
The new navy
The uniform of 1843
The public image of the naval officer
Uniform regulations 1856
Ratings' uniforms
Conclusion
CATALOGUE
Pattern 1748
Pattern 1774
Pattern 1787
Pattern 1795-1812
Pattern 1812-1825
Pattern 1825-1827
Pattern 1827-1830
Pattern 1830-1843
Pattern 1841
Pattern 1843
Pattern 1846
Pattern 1856
Non-Regulation Accessories and Dress and Ceremonial Garments and Accessories
Indian Navy-Pattern 1828
Honourable East India Company - Pattern 1830
Patterns (line drawings)
Index
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